Ashish celebrated love and unity on the runway
In the wake of political uncertainty, the catwalk became a call to arms for Ashish. “Being an immigrant myself, I feel very strongly about issues that are currently in the news. As an artist, I feel like I must stand up and say something or I wouldn’t be true to myself, you can’t just turn a blind eye.” He told Village. Walking down a glittering yellow brick road through a giant broken heart backdrop, models faces were painted with Mexican fighting masks in solidarity with Mexico. Glittering sequined shirts and jumpers read ‘Keep the faith’ and ‘Love sees no colour’, whilst the words ‘Unfinished business’ run down the sleeves of American varsity jackets. In conversation with Village backstage, the designer discussed the political undertone to his love of sparkle, “Sequins to me have always been a kind of revolt, a kind of protest if you will, fight it with glitter”.
Fyodor Golan brought Post-It notes and the Powerpuff Girls to LFW
Their most energising show to date, for autumn/winter ‘17 Fyodor Golan channelled Katharina Grosse’s spray painted rainbow artworks. “We were fascinated by the way she expressively uses bold colours within a space, consuming them, spraying raw rainbows through and over everything in her way”. Models wore skin-tight jumpsuits, high-waisted trousers, giant puffer jackets and sleeveless polo necks covered in leopard, psychedelic rainbow prints and camouflage. Whilst clear plastic jackets and trousers were covered in Post-its, bringing a freedom of expression to each piece. “The post-it products have come to express everyday art form and an element of universal self-expression.”
Aries launched a book at DSM in collaboration with master lensman David Sims
After twenty plus years in the business, photographer David Sims and designer Sofia Prantera have seen it all. The lifecycle of subcultures, brands veer from cult to commercial, fashion pre and post social media and its subsequent effect. Click to Buy – a 100-plus page coffee table book that takes David’s images, all styled by Jane How, and sees them layered with graphics from Aries’ long-time collaborator Fergus “Fergadelic” Purcell. The book beautifully demonstrates DIY attitudes of their post-punk generation and the photographic line between empowerment and exploitation.
palmer // harding tapped into goth silhouettes
As an ode to designer Levi’s youth and belief in oneself, palmer//harding‘s collection took inspiration from goths for autumn/winter 17. Growing up in small-town Texas, Levi’s teenage years in the 90s belonged to the goths, which he meant to be a show of rebellion and individuality, but he soon realised it was just another example of collectivism. There was a restless pushing and pulling of codes within the tribe that resulted in a fascination with 80s glam and a desire to make clothes rather than shopping from the same store in the same mall as everyone else. Mimicking the period from dawn to dusk, black, white, evergreens, blue lichens, pink sunsets and golden sunrises are the collection’s key colours. Shirts — palmer//harding’s cornerstone — featured cape-backs, cascading hems and additional button fastenings along the seams, forever interchanging how the piece it is worn.
Baserange got personal and opened up about political and social conflicts
The underwear and easy-wear label continue to use sustainable fabrics and processes, further exploring their core philosophy to create clean, basic shapes that move and feel comfortable. This season Baserange got personal and opened up about the ongoing social and political conflicts in USA. “The work I create now is about the experience of otherness and vulnerability I experienced growing up in the United States. Being half-Mexican and half-Guatemalan, I felt stigmatised, as though I needed to continually prove myself. That I was intelligent enough, attractive enough. There were few books I could read or films I could see, that reflected my experience. I was surrounded by standards of beauty that I could not relate to.”
Nanushka redefined your suitcase essentials
Being far away from home helps you leave the usual preconceptions behind, feeling liberated to express yourself and daring to play around with the concept of your style. Nanushka‘s autumn/winter ‘17 collection, Suitcase Stories takes inspiration from a ‘traveller’s state of mind’, exploring the idea of a suitcase filled with your most precious clothes, each with a special memory to tell. Versatile items and easy-to-care fabrics are highly appreciated, serving as your perfect day to night looks. Nanushka’s collection is feminine and mature, brought to life through beautiful knitwear and refined leather accessories.
Rebecca Minkoff paid tribute to the tracks that inspired her designs
For autumn/winter 17, Rebecca Minkoff pays tribute to music, “I wanted to pay tribute to the moments in music that have shaped my designs. The Rolling Stones have long been one of my muses, and this collection is an homage to one of their muses, Anita Pallenberg. Her bohemian sensibilities made for a unique pairing with the band’s hard edge.” Capturing the spirit of a trip to Joshua Tree and a winding tour through the U.S. to New York City, the inspiration resulted in a collection full of soft airy dresses & blouses, statement furs & leathers and rich velvets.
Peter Jensen looked back on previous ranges with Greatest Hits
“When I think about the world now, it’s a very common place of trying to grab as much as you can about everything and I don’t think you as a human being can really do that, I don’t think that that is fitting. I really like people who are focused on one thing.” We caught up with designer Peter Jensen in Dalston during his autumn/winter 17 lookbook shoot to discuss muses and art’s place within fashion. Follow Village’s lens and take a sneak peek behind the scenes of Peter Jensen‘s Greatest Hits lookbook here.
This season, we took Robert Clergerie to the showrooms of Paris as he drew his inspiration from the 1989 movie Slaves of New York, exploring its key trends through NYC’s art, music and dance scene during the 80s and 90s. The colour palette explored the city’s ‘Indian Summer’, using lichen greens, touches of deep red chilli and deep savannah in leathers and rich devoured velvet.
Superga collaborated with designer Charlotte Simone
“I’m a trainer girl-at-heart, I always wear sneakers,” the designer told Refinery29. “And I was pretty set on doing furry sneakers for the showcase.” In the collection, she describes, “There’s a pink fluffy mule and a velcro fluffy sneaker that’s a nod to the ’90s,” as well as a play on Superga‘s classic platform shoe, which features a pink trim and is meant to be accessorised with different laces.
We followed Princess Julia through LFW
Village’s content editor, Tori West took a trip through London Fashion Week with writer and DJ, Princess Julia to discover what makes the city’s fashion scene buzz. Resulting in an 8-minute mini-doc, the film is an access all area documentation of some of London’s most exciting autumn/winter 17 shows. Watch the full film exclusively on Village TV.
Words Tori West